Cycling Saigon

There are 20 million mopeds in Vietnam. This is what it's like to bike in the middle of them.

--and the bikes are Salsa Fargos.

Vote for Daveed Numero Uno

Daveed, Brook and I at the Tropico de Cancer in Mexico

I met Daveed Numero Uno for the first time on the side of the road in Camp Pendleton Military base in SoCal. He had just been robbed at a Jiffy Mart on the base. We were both cycling south through the Americas to Ushuaia, Argentina. I saw Daveed 1 again a few months later in Durango, Mexico (where he was dressed like a clown), then in Chiapas, Mexico (where he had convinced a Univision TV crew to follow him), and finally, nearly a year later in the Atacama desert in Northern Chile (where his front fork snapped in half and he crashed off the roadside).

He's a smart guy and I have a ton of respect for what he did during his cycling trip through the Americas - http://www.rideforclimate.com/

Now, he's been selected as a finalist to be the citizen journalist rep in Copenhagen for the UN Climate Change Conference.

Go here to vote for him

He made a nifty little video about his background here


Daveed Uno, Brook and I, in the desert of northern Chile--about a year after the first picture was taken

Gregorio Blacklisted at the Border

The DMZ border of North and South Korea is the most heavily armed in the world and a strange place to boot. Gmack asked the wrong question...something like "how often do joint security forces do military this and that @ this that and other areas?" and had his camera taken away and passport re-checked (he got them back later).

The top picture is taken at the border--note Russian tourists on top of building in North Korea and the soldier checking us out with his binoculars. Second picture is Gregorio bonding with Korean army dude, and the bottom is the bus station in Seoul.

First Take, Korea - Personal Pictures

I'm in Korea for three weeks with my adventure buddy GMack. Though I'm focusing on assignment photo-cycling-stuff, I really can't resist making pictures of a sexy set of legs, stuffed animals, or Greg hammering an endless pot of cuttlefish stew. Here's a gallery of personal shots from our first few days in Korea.

우리는 한국의 주위에 자전거를 탄다!!!!!!!!!!

Gregg


Korea - Images by Gregg Bleakney

Back in the World - and almost on Gilligan's Island

For 2009 I'm pursuing some personal and professional projects in South America. Rather than spend my time and cash flying back and forth from Seattle, I decided to base myself in Colombia and Argentina for the bulk of the year. So back in the world I is once again!

The route south:

For $100 I hopped a flight from Seattle to Miami and hung with pal Steve Gross and gal Dolleen for a few days before hitting Everglades National Park and another $104 dollar flight to Bogota. The $ catch...Delta airlines hosed me with over $200 worth of hidden baggage surcharges on my flight to Miami. From Bogota, I hooked up with my friend Carolina, who is starting an adventure travel company. We took a all-night bus (that didn't make one stop in 9 hours...not even for bathroom breaks) to Medellin and then a crop-duster to the Pacific Coast. From there we caught a boat to a tiny little village on the coast. Carolina was exploring new travel itinerary options in Colombia along this "Lost Coast", we hiked the entire stretch over 3 days.  

I must say, the potential in this part of Colombia is truly untapped...think Costa Rica with clutter free beaches, less...or I should say almost ZERO touristas, whale encounters, a largely unexplored National Park, never-ending wildlife, and an Afro-pacific vibe. The small hotel I crashed at in the main port town of Nuqui registered 3 foreigners in the past 3 years...2 Swiss and 1 American--a surfer who evidently broke his board and bailed on the next flight out.

I could write on and on about this place but you should just come down and see for yourself...or better yet, sign up for one of Carolina's tours. 

However, as this is a truly raw destination, the trip did have some pretty sketchy and raw moments.

After completing the 3-day coastal hike we decided to source a small fishing boat to return to the Aiport at Nuqui.  To make a long story short. The surf picked up and we were were struck by two huge waves which capsized and sunk the boat. I must now cross another 1 of my 9 vidas off the list. A group of fisherman from shore spotted us and somehow swam out through the surf break to save us and recover the boat. It was a day of mixed emotions but luck and good people prevailed in the end. Much of my gear was trashed. I manage to save my camera equipment and fired off a few shots during the moment (below). 

I did lose my beloved iPhone and Patagonia sandals to the sea. Those who know me well will understand this tragic loss of gadgetry and footwear. The good news is that my electric toothbrush vibrated back to life 3 days after the plunge.

Though I still have fun shooting landscapes and adventure stuff, my work focus in Colombia right now is cultural. Above is an embedded gallery of a few images from the rural fisherman and peasants that live along this coastline. I made some of these in black and white, my first time ever...which is kind of strange since I'm colorblind (thank you Nelson for the suggestion which I rejected at first but then reconsidered on the flight down).

G

Maktub 2007-2008 NYE Online

I've said it before and I'll say it again, Maktub is my favorite band. Their fan-funded and independent recording model is unique and refreshing in today's world of packaged music.

I took pictures of them as they rehearsed for and played in last year's NYE show in Seattle. You can check em' out on their Web site.

Also, Reggie Watts was just awarded the Esquire Magazine 2008 Genius award.

To really get blown away, check out his freestyle music and comedy performance here.

Annual Photogaphy Wrap-up

When I was making pictures for the first time on my Alaska to Argentina bike trip, I started a loose journal of my experience and progress towards meeting my photographic mission. I still do this annual reckoning on my birthday—which was yesterday—so all this is fresh in my cranium right now. I won’t bore you with goal setting stuff, but here's a behind the scenes look at a-year-in-the-life some of my favorite photographic events...and the ride along the way:)

January – My favorite band is Maktub. They let me follow them around for a few days while they rehearsed for their big New Year’s Eve headliner in Seattle. The band members were as cool as the music.



Mid-January – I was invited to the Geographic Magazine’s annual meeting of photographers in D.C. The photographers gather first in Explorer’s Hall for lectures and presentations and then spill out to various bars and house parties to share their work, learn, exchange ideas, and catch-up. It was 100% special to meet all of those amazing people, some of whom are literally working to change the world.

February and March – My trip to Colombia was probably the highlight of my year. 4,000 kilometers by car, boat, bike—the Andes to the Amazon with the ultimate friend and tour guide, Caro. I drank a lot of really good coffee too! I went to Colombia to take pictures of the cycling and adventure scene there. On the third day, I got robbed and lost all of my gear. I decided to use a small digital point-and-shoot back-up camera and stayed for 2 more months, changing my focus from cycling to culture.

My equipment loss turned out to out to be a huge breakthrough for me, as moving light and fast with the simple small camera allowed me to draw less attention and get much more intimate with people. A few pictures from this trip were published in last months Nat. Geographic Adventure Magazine. I saw someone get killed for the first time in my life on this trip—a guy got shot in the head just next to me on a crowded street corner.

Ahhhh yes, Coffee

My 1st time holding a loaded Machine Gun

Caro waiting in dingy Bogota police station after I got robbed. There, I filled out a bunch of forms. At the top of one it read, "How were you robbed?" There were three check-box options below: Drugged, Shot, and Other.

Colombian cyclists, coaches and sponsors. The guy on left won the 2008 world Junior Championships just after this pic.—he's a big deal now...he's also a super-nice guy.

March and April – Rest in Seattle. I took St. Pats day photos for my friend’s Irish bar in the city. It was crazy, I actually found myself telling several women to either stop flashing the camera or do a better job w/ tucking their cleavage in. It felt like spring break Mexico, but colder and in Seattle—substitute Corona for Guinness, Tequila for Jameson. I think that means I'm getting old...the other dudes in the bar didn't seem to mind however.



May – I got a scholarship to attend the ILCP Conservation Photography Summit Jackson, Wyoming. Rich Clarkson gave me the scholarship. Some of the world’s top photo-editors and photographers were there. They helped walk me through some project ideas, edit sessions—we also drank beer. Two of my images from my time there were selected for the National Museum of Wildlife Art’s summer exhibit, they were also published in some newspapers. To get there, I bicycled 1,150 miles to Jackson, WY from Seattle. It took 21 days. I stopped at every microbrewery and bird refuge along the way, deeming the trip the “Birds and the Beers Tour.”

Ranier Beersks and burgers at WA States oldest pub, The Bluebird, in Bickelton

One of my pictures from Wyoming

With Rich, one of my pictures from the exhibit in the background

June – The Altitude Adjustment Tour. I bicycled across the Colorado Rockies with Don Thomas and the Dirty Doctor Nords to the Telluride Bluegrass festival. This will be published as short story in an upcoming issue of Adventure Cyclist Magazine. Along the way, I got altitude sickness, started up-chucking and ended up hitching 60 miles on backroads in a truck with some real-life Cheech and Chong drug smugglers.

Don and the Dirty Doc Nords on top of Cottonwood Pass

July – I spent time shooting in Olympic National Park with my dear friend Caro from Colombia who was in town for a climbing expedition. On a foggy morning at Shi Shi Beach, I had a once-in-a-lifetime encounter with a Gray Whale. It swam right up to the beach (about 30 feet away from us) scratched its belly on the gravel a few times and then stuck both its head and tail out of the water and slapped them down against the sea like Shamu. I asked a local whale researcher about this and he said that he has never heard of or been part of such an intimate encounter in his entire career.

A few weeks later, I was snapping lame pictures of myself taking my MTB off the back of my car at a campsite. When I checked the preview, I realized that there was a huge bull Elk just behind me. He seemed to be teeing-up to mow me down. Fortunately, before he had time to give me a good gashing, his buddy showed up and they thrashed each other for 30 minutes next to my cooking stove. I dodged in there and turned it off, saving my dinner but nearly getting nixed by an antler along the way. I also taught a few photo workshops for the Quinault Lodge in the Park.

Caro with the Whale

About to get gashed by Elk

Another Elk distracted the first, sparing me his wrath. Diner cooking safely in foreground.

End of Summer – I hiked a high pass route through the Olympics with my good buddy G Mac and shot a bike tour around Washington for Adventure Cycling’s Tours Catalog and Adventure Cyclist Magazine. The article will come out in 2009. It was fully catered by an exceptional cook. I ate a boatload. From there I went to New York for meetings with magazine photo editors and then shot this really cool tour called Climate Ride. The route was from New York to WA D.C. 120 riders showed up and they raised $400,000 for the fight against climate change. My pictures are running as banners on their homepage...http://www.climateride.org/

Tour of WA cinnamon roll hammer session

The studly Climate Ride organizers

Fall – My drivers license expired in 2006. Since I don’t own a car, it wasn’t been a big deal but I finally got it renewed. To do this I had to re-establish my residency. I only have eBills so this was a total pain. After I explained my car-free, bill free situation, the lady at the DMV told me to just bring a copy of a car payment stub, car insurance stub or gun owners permit and I’m all set. Hmmmmm. OK. I also had to embarrassingly ask my dad to drive me to the DMV so that I could take my driving test. I made up for the madness with a truly excellent road trip. With my Mountain Bike on the back, I hopped into the "Black Shjeep" and drove 7,500 miles through Washington, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, Utah, New Mexico, Nevada, California, and Oregon, hitting all of the best MTB trails and National Parks along the way. I also met with a ton of magazines, photo editors, clients, friends and started to sort out my 2009 assignment schedule, which could be pretty dreamy!

Don Thomas joined me for 8 days of the trip. I was also gifted the ultimate road-trip album—Strangers Almanac. Can’t believe it took me so long to discover this one.

Don Thomas passed-out in bark dust patch near the Black Shjeep

Don Thomas geared up for a big night out in Denver. Yes ladies, the chest hair is real.

Turkey Day – Spent with my fam. at the Quinault Lodge in Olympic National park. I took pictures of Salmon and upset a bunch of Bald Eagles circling overhead who wanted to the eat those Salmon.



Birthday – Wine, ice Cream, and lots of maps…next year is shaping up to interesting indeed. The wine I'm drinking is from Argentina--if that gives you any hints.

New Mexico

With Don Thomas dropping into the mix in Denver, we rolled from Taos to Santa Fe, NM to Durango, CO. Hot springs and have not to be missed along the route as high desert snow storms and temps in the teens are the nightly norm.

Olympic National Park High Country

One of my favorite adventure buddies to hang with is Sr. Gregorio Mac. As the most well traveled human I know, he's spent a lifetime exploring countless countries on all 7 continents with mostly human power--kayak, bike, hike, swim, and ski. He's also known as the first and only dude to trail run EVERY mile of Olympic National Park--some 600+ miles. So when I get an email from him talking about anything "epic" (which in this case was a hike through the high country of the Park), I pay attention, show up and count on the usual suffer-fest which always results in well earned views and joy.

Fifty miles, 4 days, 5 high passes and countless views/rain/windstorms later I'm back in Seattle with blistered feet, a flash card full shots, and even more curiosity regarding the diversity of this amazing park. This past trip into the high country has inspired a new & extended personal project on the Park and People who manage it. Over the next few years, I'll keep shooting out there on and off in attempt to build a collection of images from ONP that better showcase its understated wonders than any words I may be able to hack on this blog.

G

Oly Park - Heading back for more

Last week I checked-in on the WA coast/Olympic National Park/Shi Shi beach with a Mountaineers photo-group and my friend Carolina from Colombia. It's a pretty freakin' nice place.

In fact, I'm so blown away by Olympic National Park that I'm heading back to hike for two weeks across the Quinault Rain Forests, Elwah, and highlands next week. Here's what the beach scene looks like:

Friends on the Printed Page

I'm always toting a camera around and subjecting traveling companions to my OCD picture taking. I'm pretty lucky to have such a patient crew of friends. Here are a few of my images that have appeared in magazines or online in the past month or so--most of the subjects are repeat offenders!

If you want to see more published work go here and click on the Tear Sheets link on the right side of the page.


Horst - Cover this month's Adventure Cycling Magazine in the Swiss Alps


Horst - Feature article for Adventure Cycling Magazine


Brook - Feature Article, May/June American Photo Magazine

Don Thomas - Cover, Cyclists' Yellow Pages 2008-2009


Don Thomas - Back Cover, Annual Report


Brook, Jamon, Daveed Numero 2, Yo, and Don Thomas - Back cover, Cyclists' Yellow Pages


Mystery Australian - Cover Spring Checkpoint Magazine

Brook - 2008 Co-Motion Web Site Photography